How Demna Mined the Archives for His Debut Gucci Fall Collection
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February 27, 2026

There was nothing tame about Demna’s fall debut for Gucci. It was apparent from the start that S-E-X was the main message. So it’s no surprise that when the creative director was immersed in what he called the “gucciness of Gucci,” what resonated most was Tom Ford’s sizzling era between spring 1996 through fall 2004, which was defined by raunch and refinement.
Last season Demna produced a lookbook of character-driven looks called La Famiglia. He expanded on that idea for fall, imagining the brand as a character. “I see Gucci as a person,” he announced in his show notes. “Someone with a wild, unforgettable past and unmistakable codes.” What came through clearly was a sybaritic streak—and the designer’s intimate familiarity with the archives. Here, a look at Gucci now and then.

Gucci,s pring 1998
Photo: WWD / Getty Images

Gucci, fall 2026
Photo: Courtesy of Gucci

Gucci, spring 2004
Photo: Shoot Digital for Style.com

Gucci, fall 1996
Photo: WWD / Getty Images

Gucci, fall 2026
Photo: Courtesy of Gucci
Gucci, fall 1999
Penske Media/Getty Images

Gucci, fall 2026
Photo: Courtesy of Gucci

Gucci, spring 1998
Photo: WWD / Getty Images

Gucci, fall 2026
Photo: Courtesy of Gucci

Gucci, spring 2000
Photo: JB Villareal / Shoot Digital

Gucci, fall 2026
Photo: Courtesy of Gucci

Gucci, spring 1999
Photo: Condé Nast Archive

Gucci, fall 2026
Photo: Courtesy of Gucci

Gucci, spring 2000
Photo: JB Villareal / Shoot Digital

Gucci, fall 2026
Photo: Courtesy of Gucci

Gucci, spring 1999
Photo: Condé Nast Archive

Gucci, fall 2026
Photo: Courtesy of Gucci

Gucci, fall 2004
Photo: Marcio Madeira

Gucci, fall 2026
Photo: Courtesy of Gucci

Gucci, fall 1997
Photo: WWD / Getty Images

Gucci, fall 2026
Photo: Courtesy of Gucci

Gucci, spring 2001
Photo: JB Villareal / Shoot Digital for Style.com

Gucci, fall 2026
Photo: Courtesy of Gucci
Gucci, spring 1996
Photo: Penske Media / Getty Images

Gucci, fall 2026
Photo: Courtesy of Gucci

Gucci, fall 2004
Photo: Marcio Madeira

Gucci, fall 2026
Photo: Courtesy of Gucci

Gucci, fall 2004
Photo: Marcio Madeira

Gucci, fall 2026
Photo: Courtesy of Gucci

Gucci , fall 1996
Photo: Condé Nast Archive

Gucci, fall 2026
Photo: Courtesy of Gucci

Gucci, spring 2000
Photo: JB Villareal / Shoot Digital

Gucci, fall 1997
Photo: WWD / Getty Images

Gucci, fall 2026
Photo: Courtesy of Gucci

Gucci, spring 1997
Photo: WWD / Getty Images
Christian Lacroix is Laird Borrelli-Persson’s fashion raison d’etre; the way he combined romance and historicism set her on the path she is following today. Borrelli-Persson studied literature at Boston College, spending her junior year abroad at Oxford, where she added some art history. After graduation she moved to New York to intern ... Read More
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